Tuesday, August 18, 2015

The Other Long Beach: A Dose of California on the South Shore of Long Island

The Long Beach boardwalk
I'm the only person in the bar seating area when I step inside John Henry's Pub at 3pm on a Thursday. It seems natural to strike up a conversation with Melissa, the bartender, who - it turns out - is a lifelong resident of this barrier island. What's her favorite thing about Long Beach?

"We talk about Long Beach almost like it's a person. Everybody has a lot of community pride." 

Nestled conveniently at the end of a Long Island Rail Road branch, Long Beach is a popular day trip in the summertime and a tight-knit bedroom community all year-round. With a hopping nightlife, a wider beach of whiter sand than you see closer to the city, and a humid subtropical climate that allows for the growth of palm trees, it's easy to feel like you've left the northeast entirely.

Striking architecture abounds, from the condo buildings of multi-colored bricks dotting the boardwalk, to adorable bungalows lining quiet streets. The history of Long Beach is oddly turbulent - check out Wikipedia for more information - but this unique combination of struggles has informed the character found around every corner.  

Allegria Hotel
An ideal day in Long Beach looks something like this: 

Hop on a Long Beach-line LIRR train and take it to the end, a trip which lasts about an hour from Penn Station. Grab lunch at the Laurel Diner, an institution since 1932, where you'll find that most of the customers banter with the staff as if they were longtime friends. Then, head over to the beach, which does have a cost - $12 - but you can mitigate that with the MTA's Long Beach getaway package. 

For dinner, your options are numerous, but why not try Atlantica at the Allegria hotel (which, by the way, is the only oceanfront resort hotel on Long Island)? Sip some wine and enjoy some seafood while watching the beach clear out at sunset. 

After a disco nap, head to the west side and the bars clustered along Beech street. Very popular with the under-30 set, the nightlife here rivals anything in Manhattan's East Village. Highlights include authentic Irish classic Shine's, Jetty Bar and Grill, and Speakeasy.

Ultimately, there is enough to do in Long Beach to make it a primary destination for out-of-towners on a trip to the NYC region. The LIRR allows for day trips to the Big Apple, replacing the dynamic of day trips to the beach. However you choose to experience it, it's a worthy summertime spot on the south shore of Long Island!



Friday, August 7, 2015

Charming Americana with a Nautical Twist: An Afternoon in Port Washington, NY

The port
Long Island receives an unfair rap. Disparaged by some NYC residents as a place of suburban sleepiness and atrocious accents - and there is some of that - the diversity of experiences it has to offer is frequently overlooked.

Everybody knows about the Hamptons, and Fire Island. These beach destinations live off of their own legends, but for the wanderer wondering what else there is to do on a warm summer day in LI, they might be surprised at how close an escape from the noise and chaos of the city can be found.

Located along the north shore at the end of the Port Washington LIRR line, 45 minutes from Penn Station, is - well, Port Washington!

Known since the 1870s as the largest sand mining town east of the Mississippi, with product mined here being used in the concrete bases for the Empire State and Chrysler buildings, those days are long behind. The sand mines are now a golf course, and a visitor to Port Washington will find a tight-knit community of around 15,000, centered on sailing, leisure time, and seafood. It's not glamorous or exotic, but it's a more-than-worthy diversion on a weekend afternoon.

Main street
Hopping off the Long Island Rail Road at its terminus, you can easily walk between the main attractions this charming hamlet has to offer. Most of them are located along a truly American main street. Rows of mom-and-pop restaurants, antique stores, parks, and cafes give you tons of options to make your own fun and get a feel for the community!

It's highly recommended that you drop by the token independent bookstore, Dolphin Books, and its attached coffee shop serving up treats like Nutella(!) lattes. In the age of the e-reader and a chain-choked New York City, there's something very soothing about getting lost in a local bookstore. Be sure to buy something, even if it's just a coffee, to support them (don't you dare price compare on Amazon)!

Historic structures about, like the Bank of North Hempstead
On your way toward the harbor, grab lunch at the Harbor Deli, a no-nonsense joint with a bewilderingly large menu that cooks up a mean hamburger. Almost the entire crowd while I was there was chatting with one another and the men behind the counter, lending the feel of a blue collar hangout.

The main attraction in Port Washington is Sunset Park, along the waterfront. On a warm day, the breeze off the water moderates the humidity. You can jog, walk the dog, gaze out at the sailboats in the bay, and even see Manhattan, far away and forgotten in the distance.

Sunset Park is so named due to the legendarily breathtaking sunsets. Enjoy one while sipping on wine and slurping down oysters at Louie's, a long-established classic.

Finally, for animal lovers, drop by the North Shore Animal League - just don't blame me if you end up on the train back to NYC with a furry companion in tow!

However you choose to spend your time, you'll have a pleasant and relaxing afternoon in historic and adorable Port Washington.