A Respite from Chaos - and Clothing - in Sandy Hook, NJ

Speeding toward Sandy Hook aboard the ferry

"If you're going to North Beach or Gunnison Beach, take the bus to the right. Gunnison is clothing optional."

The park ranger repeats this every few seconds to the stream of beach-goers filing off the Seastreak ferry. It's a mantra that heralds summertime, the promise of a lazy day on white sands without a tourist in sight. A mere 45 minutes ago, we were in the thick of midtown Manhattan, waiting to board. Now, having been whisked down the east river and then out into New York harbor and beyond, the city is a hazy silhouette 20 miles away.

"Gunnison's a nude beach, you know?" a young guy behind me says. His friends whisper and laugh nervously. They're all wearing board shorts. I hazard a guess that they're staying on the bus to North.

We board the yellow school bus - "Shamrock Stage Coach" is emblazoned on the side. I haven't looked up the reasoning behind that and I've decided I'm fine with not knowing - this is a place that invites a little bit of mystery. It's a 5-minute ride over to the beach parking lot and a short walk to the sand from there.

Sandy Hook as seen from the air (Wikipedia)

The ride takes us past a variety of immaculately preserved buildings and protected nature. Owned by the federal government as a unit of the Gateway National Recreation Area, the Sandy Hook barrier split is home to several points of interest - a lighthouse, a science and technology academy, and Fort Hancock, a former military base. One end of the beach we're going to, Gunnison, is roped off - a breeding ground for the threatened piping plover bird.

The significance of Sandy Hook as a regional beach destination away from the crowds of Coney Island and the Rockaways goes back to the mid-1970s, when Fort Hancock was decommissioned. Gunnison was where the unit men skinny-dipped, and it was opened to the public shortly thereafter. It is the only nude beach in New Jersey.

When exactly Gunnison became a major queer beach, as well, is unclear - perhaps it always was. While there are plenty of straight couples and families with children who journey to Sandy Hook, groups of gay men make up most, but not all, of the nude section at Gunnison. As the bus empties out and we walk past the restrooms, outdoor showers, and a truck serving "liquid nitrogen-cooled ice cream," all sound gradually gives way to the crashing waves. A blue mesh walkway eventually ends on open sand, and we're on the beach.

As PG a photo as can be taken - umbrellas in the distance

There's something about a nude beach that serves as the ultimate ice-breaker. Whether there with two friends, seven, or just by yourself, you will almost assuredly meet people. It's a relaxed, jovial environment that recalls the sepia-toned snapshots of Fire Island in the 1960s and 70s. Many people like to bemoan that gay socializing has gone online or lives primarily at drug-fueled parties and cliquish clubs - I don't endorse this viewpoint, but you won't be able to deny that Gunnison removes a layer of unspoken pretension as well as fabric.

The most convenient way to experience Gunnison for yourself, if you live in NYC, is to take the ferry and shuttle buses. Departures are from the East 35th street pier and Pier 11 at Wall Street. Details on pricing and scheduling are on the Seastreak site. Keep in mind that the ferry runs year-round and the beach is officially open from April 1st to October 31st, so you are not limited to the Memorial Day - Labor Day timeframe.

If you're coming from anywhere else, there are hotels in Highlands, the nearest municipality, located right where Sandy Hook joins mainland New Jersey. You can also drive and park at the beach, but spaces fill up very early on nice weekends, so make a long day of it.

After hours of day drinking (legal on federal land!), sun tanning, and laughter, it's time to get back to the shuttle buses and head for the ferry. A nap in the air conditioning sounds nice. We'll be back, and so will you.